Relax 
Friday, July 4, 2003 

A few kilometres south of Diani Beach, just before the twinkling Chale island, is a treasure trove that many people don't notice. 

It is green all over – barring a shimmer of yellow and white from flowers in bloom – and it is home to countless plants and animals. It is the Kaya Kinondo ... an enchanting forest that is a living and cultural museum.

We visited the site recently, accompanied by tourists and researchers, and were met at the gate by Abdullah Ali Muyenze. He is an enthusiastic guide who combines several roles within his Kinondo community. 

"Welcome to the shrine," he says, but cautions: "those wearing shorts or mini-dresses will have to tie a lesso round their waists." This, he says, is because the kaya is a sacred place for Digo people.

We comply and are ushered in. The weather is hot but as soon as we enter the large canopy of trees, it turns cool and tranquil.

A traditional herbalist, Muyenze takes us through the forest, talking about his pet topic – plants and trees of medicinal value. "They are the main reason of preserving this forest."

As we go along, he tells us there are certain spots we cannot photograph, nor get too close to. One of them is the graveyard of former kaya residents.

Smoking is also prohibited. He says it is only during traditional ceremonies when a bull or a goat is slaughtered near the grave and blood spilled on the ground. Elders then move to a distant spot to eat the meat. The ceremony must be led by a spiritual leader. Each kaya has one. 

Further on, Muyenze tells us to stop at the stump of a tree. It is called mnguo-mnguo in Kidigo, he says, and is 200 years old. 

He tells us to embrace it in turns while pressing an ear on it. We do this and are amazed by the sounds we hear inside. "Many activities are going on here," says one visitor. Another agrees, "There are sounds like those of flowing water and others like those of birds or animals in motion."

Exhilarated, Muyenze says the stump is one of the shrine's greatest wonders. "Unfortunately, even a 10-year-old can destroy it in 10 minutes – and with it a 200-year history."

After the forest trail, we buy souvenirs at a makeshift market near the gate. "They are from women's groups that contribute to the area's development," Muyenze says. 

We then walk through a village where we are briefed on the people's lifestyles. Muyenze shows us the site where he practices traditional medicine. There is a patient with a simple ailment who Muyenze treats as we wait.

We move over to his home and find a dozen people waiting for him on his front yard.

"Some of them are sick and want treatment while others want administrative help," Muyenze says. He explains that he is also a nominated councillor and the chairman of all kaya leaders in Kwale District.

To complete the tour, we visit the local Kaya Kinondo Primary School. 

The shrine is under the Kaya Kinondo Ecotourism project, a community initiative that conserves the forest and distributes its social-economic benefits. The project was formed two years ago.

A tourism officer with the Coastal Forest Conservation Unit, Elias Kimaro, says: "Our aim is to sensitise locals on the importance of caring for kayas."

"But the people have to benefit in tangible terms first. Conservation should have cultural and economic advantages.

He explains that gate fees to the kayas assist schools and other community-based projects. 

If people benefit, there will be no conflict between animals and humans, the rich and the poor.

Kimaro says the main threats to kayas are sand diggers, farmers and tourist hotels. 

Kimaro, who recently attended a three-week course on ecotourism in Costa Rica, Central America, says an additional benefit of ecotourism is promotion of peace.

By meeting people in their natural setting, you understand their culture and how they live. You stop looking down upon them." 

Besides the short-term gains, it promotes conservation of natural forests and halts their degradation for unsustainable uses like farming, grazing and commercial uses.

Increase in ecotourism influences scientific and educational activities. It promotes better understanding of biodiversity. 

On Kenya's downturn in tourism, Kimaro says: "Terrorism threats and other unfortunate incidents are not wholly to blame for the sorry state. Other tourist destinations have suffered worse scenarios yet recovered quickly." 

He cites the Luxor massacre in Egypt, the Tiananmen uprising in China and the Thailand coup attempt recently. When 58 tourists were killed in Luxor, the world thought it was the end of tourism in Egypt. Within 48 hours, western holiday companies had evacuated their clients. The town of 100,000, who mainly depend on tourism, were left without a means of survival.

"But within two years, Egypt was on the world tourist map as a leading destination. In 2001, tourism grew by 15 per cent, with more than 5.5 million visitors."

Kimaro says Kenya can borrow a leaf from Egypt. "Let's rectify the situation through vigorous marketing. We must also diversify our attractions from wildlife and beach tourism to ecotourism and cultural safaris."

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