THE WHAT'S ON GUIDE


August - September 2002
Images of Kenya
A Comprehensive Tourist Guide By The Nation Media Group
A treasure waiting to be discovered
A TREASURE WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED
 

By Joy Mogoko

Tourism in Kenya is associated with the Coast region, the Amboseli, Tsavo, Maasai Mara, Samburu and the Mt Kenya region. These areas are of course well-known for their excellent game parks and reserves as well as idyllic tropical beaches.

However, there are large swathes of the country that remain unexplored as tourist destinations yet they have a lot to offer the keen tourist. Promoters of tourism are now encouraging both local and international visitors to explore and experience these hidden treasures.

Most travellers dream of finding a new and unknown destination, somewhere far from the beaten tourist path, where the thrill of real discovery and exploration reward them with new and unexpected experiences, sights and sounds.

This was the reasoning behind the launch of the Western Kenya Tourist Circuit in April this year by tourism and information minister Kalonzo Musyoka. Western Kenya is an area of great geographical, cultural and natural diversity, offering the tourists just as much, if not more, than many of Kenya’s better known tourist destinations.

This beautiful country is virgin, an undiscovered world of wonders, with huge contrasts. Endlessly diverse, western Kenya has lush green highlands, the tropical rain forest of Kakamega, the great water expanse of Lake Victoria, which is of the source of the Nile, and much much more.

I had the chance to tour the western tourist circuit recently but I only managed to cover a fraction of it - it is a vast area. The first stop from Nairobi was Kericho. This town is at the heart of the tea-growing zone of the Rift Valley.

The lush green carpet of tea bushes is literally a gold nugget as tea remains Kenya’s biggest foreign exchange earner. This region produces one of the world’s finest quality teas.

Agri-tourism is becoming popular, and Kericho has grown into a reasonably big rural town. It is the perfect base to launch a tour of the tea plantations. There are also horticultural farms producing cut flowers.

A tour of the Finlay company flower farm will make even the ordinarilly dull person appreciate the smell and beauty - and even value - of flowers. The company exports more than 90 per cent of the flowers it grows.

For nature lovers, a drive from Kericho to Mbita is an unforgettable experience. Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa, is a sight to behold. It has sandy beaches and is dotted with about many small islands. The lake is an endless expanse of blue, stretching as far as they eye can see and beyond into Tanzania and Uganda.

The islands are also tourist sites, each with its own unique features. Rusinga Island, which is accessible by road, is the burial site of political genius Tom Mboya. At the site is the politician’s mausoleum. There is also the Mary Leakey archeological site. Although the site is not developed, plans are under way to return the excavated fossil and construct a proper archeological site.

The Rusinga Island Club is built right on the beach and can accommodate 18 visitors. It offers lots of activities including, fishing, sport fishing, sight seeing and water skiing.

A boat ride across the lake brings one to Mfangano Island. This is basically a fishing village, on where the Governor’s Camp, an exclusive club with six cottages and a capacity of 12 guests, is built.

The Mbasa and Namolo islands are a few metres apart. Both are famous for abundance of bird life. Uninhabited by man, the islands have many bird species including egrets and the fish eagle. There are also many monitor lizards, which feed on eggs and birds. One of the islands is inhabited by wild goats and sheep.

From Mbita to Kisumu, one passes through Ruma National Park, home to the rare Roan antelope, Jackson hartebeest and the tiny Oribi antelope.

There are many spectacular rock formations which abound with myths and mythologies in western tourist circuit. The massive columns of Kit Mikaye in Seme are towers of boulders piled together into gravity defying columns.

According to legend, this was once the homestead of a powerful man who used to abuse and mistreat his first wife. The woman returned to haunt him after her death, eventually turning him and his property into stones.

The stones have been a source of solace for the Luo people for a long time. They believe that if any man with a problem visits the stones, his problems will be solved and his wishes answered, so long as elders sacrifice a goat at the site. In the past, only men were allowed near the rocks, but visitors are these days welcome.

The site is managed by the Kit Mikaye Rock Development group which plans to construct a banda where visitors can get refreshments and accommodation. Religious groups visit the rocks hoping that their prayers will be answered.

The Luo believe their people were born in a sacred forest known as Got Ramogi. This area of Bondo has beaches and unique plants. There is a museum built in honour of the late Jaramogi Oginga Odinga. His mausoleum is at this site. The tomb of his first wife is part of the museum in which various traditional items are displayed.

The main road from Kisumu leads to Kakamega Town, the heart of the land of the Luhya community. The Luhya have a diverse culture. There are many clans and sub-clans, each with varying customs and traditions.

Not far from Kakamega Town is the "weeping" Stone of Maragoli. This huge rock produces a constant stream of spring water, which flows on the sides, giving rise to many and varied local legends.

Kakamega forest - the only rain forest in Kenya - is a "feast for the senses", a vibrant living spectacle of animal and plant life. The forest, which covers 240 square kilometres, has more than 380 different plants and is home to 400 species of butterflies, some unique and only found in the forest.

The forest teems with bird life. There are gray parrots, blue turacos, hornbills and plenty of forest raptors. Reptiles also abound in this forest with 27 different species of snakes identified so far. Seven species of primates, including colobus and Sykes monkeys live in this forest.

The forest is also home to Mama Mutere a tree scientifically known as Mysopsis Eminee. It is claimed to be the oldest tree in the forest and its seedlings have been exported to many countries. The tree has medicinal value - its bark is said to cure stomach pains and prostrate cancer. This tree type produces highly valued timber and is, sadly, an endangered species.

The Luhya community is known for the vibrant traditional dance known as the isikuti. The dance is performed by groups of paired men and women to the accompaniment of bells and whistles.

Among the Luhya, the most important traditional sporting event is bull fighting. Two large bulls are brought into a large open field to fight. The bulls are spurred on by an excited throng of onlookers, blowing traditional horns.

Bull fights are held throughout the year and are fast becoming a commercial venture, with the champion bull’s owner winning money.

From Kakamega to Nairobi, one can pass either through Eldoret or via the stunning Kerio Valley.

A safari in western Kenya is a guaranteed journey of discovery.

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